愛吃，吃到超碼

「 I」m lovin」it！」美國人到底有多愛吃速食呢？一位年輕的美國導演摩根‧史普洛克（Morgan Spurlock）在他的紀錄片《超碼的我》（SuperSize Me）中，大膽地以自己的身體當成白老鼠做實驗。連續30天，三餐只能吃麥當勞所賣的食物，連飲用水都取自麥當勞。

為了證明絕非做假，史普洛克特別找了 3位醫生為整個實驗過程做紀錄，定期追蹤他的健康狀態。在這場瘋狂的實驗展開之前，史普洛克擁有6呎2的身高，185磅的體重，其健康狀態幾乎媲美職業運動員。但在狼吞虎嚥一個月的漢堡、薯條後，悲劇發生了：史普洛克的膝蓋因為驟增的重量而感到酸痛。

為他診斷的醫師達利‧艾薩克斯（ Daryl Isaacs）表示，我們從未料到會發生如此嚴重的狀況，史普洛克的肝臟出現高濃度的毒素，膽固醇從原來正常的165升高至230，且有性慾下降的狀況。除此之外，史普洛克也覺得噁心、頭痛和感到憂鬱。史普洛克的女友是一名素食廚師，見到男友一連吃掉一百份漢堡薯條與巧克力奶昔，不禁覺得非常噁心。史普洛克在實驗結束後，隨即開始接受治療，而所謂的療程只需要停止吃這些垃圾食物。　　

《超碼的我》在 2004年的「聖丹斯電影節」（Sundance Film Festival）中，獲得紀錄片導演獎。有人認為，史普洛克所做的一切不過是為了出名罷了。目前，這支紀錄短片尚未在任何媒體前公開，但史帕克在網路上所架設的網站，可看到許多挖苦美國人愛吃速食的譏諷卡通與文章。對於麥當勞在今年3月開始調整菜單，縮減餐點的份量，許多人認為，這和史普洛克的紀錄片脫不了干係。儘管美國麥當勞的發言人一再否認，但面對麥當勞總部的回應，史普洛克無所謂地說：「管他的，反正他們總算醒了。」

對有些人而言，美國的速食文化沒什麼了不起，漢堡、薯條根本稱不上為「美食」。所謂的速食，不過是機械化時代的「機械食物」，它不需要任何特別的調理技巧，只是把幾塊肉、幾片青菜、麵包像樂高積木一樣拼裝起來，再裝到盒子裡。而透過資金的投入與跨國的經營，再加上精美的包裝與廣告宣傳，買帳的人還為數不少，而且他們一吃就是數十年之久。

這就是美國人，他們發明速食，也熱愛速食。

在台灣，到麥當勞點一份麥香堡套餐，店員會給你一個雙層純牛肉的麥香堡、一包薯條與可樂。你會發現，從包裝、口味到熱量，台灣的麥當勞跟美國的麥當勞幾乎沒什麼不同。許多台灣人總是會一成不變地打開包裝，然後就這樣一口一口地把漢堡吃完，而且都會很有默契地認為，薯條就是要沾番茄醬，雞塊要沾糖醋醬。但在美國，速食可不是我們這些「外國人」想像的那麼無趣與死板。

面對同樣內容的麥當勞和肯德基，熱愛速食的美國人，有千百萬種的搭配方法來吃漢堡、薯條和炸雞。在「狂愛速食」（ fast food fever）這個網站上，眾食客們可以找到最具創意與最刺激美味的新鮮吃法，來對付各種垃圾食物。光這樣還不夠稀奇，該網站的每一種搭配法，都有一個特別的名字，且分別標有難易度，以及所需材料的速食連鎖店。最精采的是，每種方法皆有附上詳細的步驟照片說明和評語，十分逗趣！（林仲辰）

Following in the footsteps of Michael Moore's work, "Super Size Me" is one of the new generation of documentaries in which the filmmaker becomes the subject.

In this case, director Morgan Spurlock had the bright idea that he would eat three meals a day for 30 days at McDonald's and see what happens. The outcome is not a pretty picture, but thanks to Spurlock's oversized and buoyant personality and some pretty nifty filmmaking, the results are as entertaining as they are sobering.

Spurlock got started on his journey, which took him to 20 cities, after seeing a news story in which two teenage girls were suing McDonald's, blaming fast food for their obesity. The question of personal responsibility vs. corporate responsibility is a central issue in the film, with corporate deceit taking more of beating. If the documentary has a shortcoming, it is its failure to acknowledge that all obesity is not the result of eating junk food.

But a lot of it is in this country, which Spurlock notes is the fattest nation in the world with 100 million overweight people, 60% of whom get no exercise. Spurlock manages to cram in lots of alarming facts and stats with the smart and amusing use of animation and music. For instance, a colorful map of Manhattan sprouts flags indicating each of the 83 McDonald's locations on the 14-mile island. Later, over a split screen of smiley Ronald McDonald commercials, Curtis Mayfield sings the classic "Pusher Man."

Spurlock starts out the picture of health, a strapping 6-foot-2 and 185 pounds. Three doctors and a nutritionist, who reappear throughout, examine him and attest to his well-being. But within a few days, he's vomiting out of the window of his car. And it's downhill from there. Spurlock's body goes through a general deterioration that surprises even his doctors in its rapidity. (His girlfriend, a vegan chef, is beside herself.) Gaining weight is just the outward sign; his liver becomes toxic, his cholesterol skyrockets, his libido sags, he gets headaches, and he becomes depressed.

In between the daily journal of his gorging, often with supersize portions of Big Macs, fries and soda, Spurlock interviews people on the street, the U.S. surgeon general and a lobbyist for the fast-food industry. Not surprisingly, reps from McDonald's do not return dozens of calls requesting an interview. One of the most distressing stops along the way is at a school in Illinois where kids are fed pizza, soda and sweets to their hearts content.

The real value of "Super Size Me" may be as a cautionary tale for kids. It's lively and funny enough to hold their attention while delivering an important message.

Director-producer: Morgan Spurlock; Executive producers: J.R. Morley, Heather Winters; Director of photography: Scott Ambrozy; Music: Steve Horowitz, Michael Parrish; Editor: Stela Gueorguieva, Julie Lombardi.

肥胖也是罪惡

受到美國飲食文化的影響，近來英國人餐盤裡的食物份量也有逐漸增加的趨勢，一頓飯吃下來，不僅吃得太多，連營養也有問題，造成現今英國有一半以上的人擁有體重過重的困擾，報紙的頭條也常出現警告肥胖的新聞。

一項民意調查結果指出，英國人民希望總理戈登能對拋棄式的尿布、塑膠袋、殺蟲劑，還有外帶速食、巧克力課徵「罪惡稅」，顯示現今英國人最擔心的莫過於環境污染及肥胖問題。

專家表示，儘管英國人深知美國人的肥胖問題，卻仍然學習美國的「壞習慣」，每道菜往往超出實際需要，消費者在認為物超所值的心態下，攝入過多不必要的熱量和脂肪，容易導致癌症及心臟血管病變，現今英國每年癌症患者高達 9千例，就是拜肥胖所賜。

（黃琬婷）

More than half of workers want Chancellor Gordon Brown to impose "sin" taxes on disposable nappies and plastic bags, according to a survey.

The poll by BDO Stoy Hayward on Thursday a fortnight ahead of Brown's annual budget found the public appear most concerned about products which pollute the environment and are prepared to accept "sin taxes" to curb their use.

More than 40 percent of people want to see more tax on pesticides while a third want some kind of financial deterrent on aerosol sprays.

And as warnings of an obesity epidemic grab the headlines, one in three wants a tax on takeaway fast food, with nearly half of those in the 16-24 age group in favour.

Nearly 20 percent want a tax on chocolate.

"As the Budget approaches and the Chancellor is looking for ways to make the books balance, he could extend Britain's sin taxes, rather than raiding the taxpayer's pocket through income tax and national insurance, and general business tax," said Stephen Herring, partner at BDO.

速食業也開始走瘦身風

希望能像好萊塢明星一般，在螢幕上看起窈窕美麗，確實是許多美國人一生的夢想。美國疾病控制暨預防中心日前公佈一項調查指出，美國有 1/3的人口體重過重，另外有1/3的人則是名副其實的「胖子」，也就是說，美國有2/3的人口活在肥胖的陰影之下。 (chinesenewsnet.com)

為了消除國際間對「美國人大多肥胖」的刻板印象，美國政府這幾年在推動全民瘦身計畫方面，可說是不遺餘力，甚至還發起「量體重，對抗肥胖」的新生活運動。除此之外，速食業的龍頭老大麥當勞也開始走瘦身風，宣稱自年底開始，全美一萬多家連鎖餐廳將停止提供超大份量的薯條和飲料。

相信嗎？在 1995年，薯條一份僅重2.4盎司（1盎司＝28.34克），如今，卻轉變為7.1盎司的超大尺寸。據了解，一份超大份量的薯條內含熱量610大卡、脂肪29公克、鈉390毫克，及碳水化合物77公克，相當可觀。而雞肉沙拉的熱量，比吉事漢堡還高。

這樣的超級份量也使得麥當勞成為輿論批評的對象，去年，麥當勞就飽受官司纏身之苦，許多青少年宣稱，麥當勞的餐點是造成他們肥胖的原因，儘管聯邦法院以證據不足駁回這些案子，仍然令麥當勞顏面大失。也因如此，為避免和麥當勞一樣淪為眾矢之的目標，其他速食業者，如：溫蒂漢堡，也開始進行改良菜單的計畫，推出沙拉、雞肉三明治、水果和牛奶等「營養餐點」。

事實上，相較於日本等東方國家講求精緻飲食文化，美國的食物總是以份量取勝，餐廳中比臉還大的漢堡、用 4個蛋打出來的超大炒蛋比比皆是。美國的超市也隨處可見以加侖（3.78公升）為單位販賣的鮮奶，這類的現象往往令許多初來乍到的東方留學生們，感到嘆為觀止。

雖然麥當勞樂觀的表示，撤換超大份量的菜單後，消費者不僅能達到瘦身的效果，還能節省餐費，不過，卻也有人調侃的認為，一旦超大份量的薯條消失了，胖子們可能會改以點兩份平常份量的餐點來彌補份量縮小的失落感。

（黃琬婷）

McDonald's Corp. battered by criticism of its fatty foods, said it would eliminate Supersize french fries and soft drinks by the end of the year, part of a swing toward pleasing health-minded customers and simplifying its menu.

McDonald's Supersize option, which includes a 7-ounce fries carton and 42-ounce fountain soda, has been targeted by critics as contributing to a growing obesity crisis in the United States.

The world's largest fast-food company said on Wednesday it is making the menu changes to "support a balanced lifestyle" approach that is in keeping with other recent moves to promote healthier behavior. These include a planned national launch of a Happy Meal for Adults which comes with advice from a fitness expert.

"I think it's somewhat of a PR move," said Harris Nesbitt Gerard analyst Matthew DiFrisco of the company's decision. "But by simplifying the menu, you gain efficiencies and cost reductions, the back-of-the-box type stuff."

A new documentary film, called "Super Size Me" illustrates the negative effects of over-consumption of McDonald's food. The film has not yet been released.

A McDonald's spokeswoman said that the menu changes are not related to any impact of the film on public awareness.

"They had no connection whatsoever," said the spokeswoman, Lisa Howard.

The company has been reducing complexity of its menu, part of a broader push to improve operations and service in its more than 13,000 U.S. restaurants.

"You assist in reducing the labor overhead, demands of the kitchen, and also speed of service, which is very important," DiFrisco said.

Analysts said the change will allow McDonald's to continue its emphasis on foods with higher-quality ingredients and better profit margins, such as entree-sized salads and all-white-meat Chicken McNuggets.

MARKETING MOVE?

In recent months, Oak Brook, Illinois-based McDonald's has been attempting to align its brand with an active lifestyle, highlighted by a new global advertising campaign called "I'm Lovin' It." Launched late last year, the ads feature hip-hop music and a range of lifestyle scenarios shot outside of its restaurants.

McDonald's and several of its rivals, including Wendy's Corp. (WEN.N: Quote, Profile, Research) and Burger King Corp., have also been progressively offering more foods that diverge from traditional fast-food fare, such as entree-sized salads, chicken sandwiches, fruit and milk for children.

Those changes come as concern over corporations' responsibility for public health has been growing. Last year, McDonald's was the target of a high-profile lawsuit filed on behalf of teenagers who alleged its food was the cause of their obesity. The suit was twice dismissed from federal court.

A public health advocate gave McDonald's plans conditional support.

"McDonald's made a move in the right direction by stopping sales of supersized french fries and soft drinks," said Michael Jacobson, director of the consumer-advocacy group Center for Science in the Public Interest in a statement.

"I hope it is an indication that the company is paying more attention to obesity, heart disease, and other diet-related diseases," he said, adding that he hoped other fast-food companies would quickly follow suit.

McDonald's said that the Supersize drinks will still be available as a promotional option.

The Supersize fries contain 610 calories, 29 grams of fat, 390 milligrams of sodium and 77 grams of carbohydrates, according to analysts.

McDonald's shares were up 23 cents at $28.65 on the New York Stock Exchange on Wednesday afternoon.