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══════════════════【立報】═══════════════════ |
| 教 育 專 題 深 入 報 導《2005-01-21》 |
| 本期內容 | |
| ◎ 國際專題：味覺尋根 記憶飄香 | |
| ◎ 台灣立報徵文啟事 | |
| 國際專題：味覺尋根 記憶飄香 | |
| 策劃、編譯■成怡夏 | |
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除了用文字書寫歷史外，還有什麼方式可以把家族的記憶保留下來，代代相傳？韓劇《大長今》中，長今的母親透過小冊子把烹調食物的配方和心得私傳給女兒，記憶伴隨著某種氣味、味蕾的經驗和特定的情境留了下來；而相簿╱剪貼簿則是把對記憶化為視覺化的愛，把一去不復返的時光凍結，把摯愛的身影停格下來。 美國這個移民社會目前相當盛行家族歷史的保存，許多人退休後開始到世界各地旅行，回到祖先的故鄉收集家族歷史資料、並從事整理與寫作的工作，有人透過家族食譜的編纂，有人透過老照片書信的彙整，有人透過口述歷史，把生命傳承的路徑保留下來。讓後代子孫對自己身世的根源不至於斷了線、失了根。 1996年，茱蒂絲‧巴特‧坎西格發現自己站在兩代之間──上一代逐漸凋零，而下一代卻尚未開始。她說：「那時我最喜愛的姑姑剛過世，而我的媳婦正在準備我們家族第一個孫兒的到來，在這樣的時刻，我受到強烈衝擊，要如何讓未來的世代了解我們家族的故事和歷史呢？」 因此，坎西格決定──就像愈來愈多美國人一樣──要建造一個世代延續的橋樑，透過家族最喜愛的食物來訴說家族的故事。她寄了封信給她的姑嬸阿姨、堂兄弟姊妹輩和她們已成人的孩子，詢問家族食譜和食物背後的故事。結果，她得到熱烈的回應。「甚至連表親的表親的表親……都要求在我的食譜中留下紀錄，最後共有160個家族成員貢獻了6百個食譜。」她說。 坎西格透過一個食譜出版社出版這本食譜「鎔爐的記憶」，初版印製了5百本。她和她的丈夫一開始都以為這些堆積在車庫的箱子，大概這輩子也清不完了。然而，她們沒有為此憂慮很久。在6週內，這本書—包括古典猶太食譜、家族的老照片、和俄羅斯的地圖（這個家族的故鄉）都傾售一空，因為，不只這個家族的人對這本書有興趣。隨後他們又加印了一萬本。 固然坎西格的經驗並不是典型的狀況，但卻點出了家族食譜的巨大吸引力。它是歷史的一部份、鄉愁的一部份、美食的一部份。專家表示，電腦的普及讓這束火花在全國點燃。看來似乎每一個人都想要把自己廚房的絕活寫在紙上公諸於世。 賓州小鎮普魯士王的愛咪‧高勒是一位媒體公關，她在姊姊結婚後，開始著手家族食譜的寫作。高勒用家用電腦輸入食譜內容、掃描照片、並以黑白照片設計成拼貼圖案作為封面。在她對自己的設計愈來愈有心得後，她找了家影印店，把書本內頁全用厚紙印製，還裝訂了螺旋狀的滾條，並以薄板裝訂封面。 她說，這個計劃「既是穩固家庭關係的好方法，也保存了家族的傳統」。這本書有她老奶奶烘焙餅乾的記憶。「科技今日相當進步，所以要製作一本家族食譜並不困難。」她說。她注意到即使是沒有設計概念的人，也可以利用電腦簡易的文書處理系統作出一本好書。他們還可以利用網路搜尋製作食譜的網站，網路上有數十個網站提供建議，以及省力、省時又省錢的好方法。 家族食譜不是為了展示用的，它們是與過去的一種聯繫，這也是為什麼它們對遇到艱難環境的人們格外重要的原因。「情緒的記憶與某種特殊的氣味相連。」湯姆斯‧許培雷表示，他是天普大學心理學副教授。他懷疑美國民眾對食物慰藉和家族食譜的熱潮是從911事件後加溫的，因為人們想要喚起「某種童年時期感受到的安全感」。 老食譜這麼受到寶貝的其中一個原因是，它們帶回對某位特定親人的記憶。坎西格說，家庭的烹飪者並不想要以新奇的菜餚讓客人感到印象深刻，「假如你到莎莉姑媽的家裡去，你知道你會吃到她拿手的糖醋肉丸。」在計算卡路里含量和減少碳水化合物攝取量似乎已經成為全國風潮的今日，這樣的熟悉感提供了另一種慰藉。「憑藉著家族食譜，人們可以從節食的焦慮中釋放。」許培雷教授表示：「在做這些菜餚時，人們不會去想這道菜裡面加了多少奶油，反倒會去想：『這是我祖母的做法。』」 儘管家族食譜安慰了許多人，它們的存在價值還是在於它們是家族聖經的現代版本──這本書記錄了家族的歷史。在這些案例中，家族食譜可能是過去和現在之間、新世界和舊世界間唯一的聯繫。坎西格說：「透過學習家族的歷史，人們了解到歷史是演進的，並學習到他們自己的家族是歷史的一部份。」（資料來源╱基督教科學箴言報） In 1996, Judith Bart Kancigor stood between two generations - one that was starting to fade away and one that had not yet begun. "My favorite aunt was dying, and my daughter-in-law was expecting our first grandchild," she says. "That's when it hit me: How would that coming generation know about our family stories and history?" Ms. Kancigor decided - as an increasing number of Americans are doing - to create a lasting bridge, a document that would tell the family tales through their favorite meals. So she sent a letter to her aunts, first cousins, and their adult children, asking for recipes and stories. The response was overwhelming. "In-laws of in-laws begged to be in my cookbook until 160 family members had contributed 600 recipes," she says. Kancigor ordered 500 copies of her book, "Melting Pot Memories," from a custom cookbook publisher. She and her husband wondered if "we would be stepping over those boxes in our garage for the rest of our lives." They needn't have worried. In six weeks, every copy of the book - which includes classic Jewish recipes, old family photos, and maps of Russia (the family's homeland) - was gone. Interest spread beyond the family, and 10,000 copies later, the book has been picked up by Workman Publishing, which will publish an edition of it this year. Kancigor's experience isn't typical, of course, but it does point to the great appeal of family cookbooks, which are one part history, one part nostalgia, and one part good eating. The availability of computers has helped fuel the trend nationwide, say experts. Everybody, it seems, wants to put his or her own culinary legacies down on paper. Just ask Amy Gardner of King of Prussia, Pa., a 20-something media relations coordinator who began her family cookbook when her sister got married. Ms. Gardner is using her home computer to input recipes, scan in photos, and design a black-and-white photo collage for the cover. Once she's happy with the layout, she will have a copy shop print the pages on heavy paper, add a spiral binding, and laminate the cover. The project is a "great way to solidify the relationship my family has and to preserve it," she says, savoring memories of baking cookies with her grandmothers. "Technology is great today, so that makes [creating a family cookbook] a little bit easier," she says, noting that people who have no design skills can use a simple word-processing program. Or they can turn to the Internet, where dozens of websites offer tips and shortcuts. One site - HeritageCookbook.com - will even do most of the work. Simply choose from several covers and graphic styles, scan in family photos, and type in recipes, following the template. Customers pay to use the site - the fee covers multiple family members - and must order a minimum of five copies of the finished product, which is 6 by 9 inches, has a spiral binding, and arrives by mail. Susan Love, who owns the site, says business is brisk because family cookbooks combine two popular hobbies: cooking and genealogy. "When you sit down and think about writing your memoirs, unless you're a genealogist, where do you start? But one or two recipes kind of pulls it out of you. It's a tool," she says. Ms. Love's first orders came from Southerners, who tend to prize home cooking and preserving the past. Most of her clients are women, who dedicate their books to the memory of a mother or grandmother. Love's best pieces of advice: Choose one editor in chief and make sure that pictures are scanned in properly at the right resolution. Other helpful tips: ‧ Develop an organized system for handling the recipes and flow of information. ‧ Keep recipes in one place. ‧ Decide how to divide the cookbook. ‧ Test recipes beforehand and make any necessary notes or adjustments. In the early 1900s, for example, many women used a "glass" of liquid. ‧ Make sure recipes are explicit enough that even beginning cooks can use them. ‧ Choose which pictures to include and provide enough caption information so that future generations will understand what each photo represents and who is in it. ‧ Include letters or other relevant items that will tell part of the family story. ‧ Start gathering recipes and stories while elderly relatives are still alive. Otherwise, some favorites may be lost. ‧ Proofread, proofread, proofread, but if a typo does slip by, don't get too upset. After all, family cookbooks aren't for show. They're a connection to the past, which is why they're especially important to people in uncertain or difficult times. "Emotional memories are tied to particular flavors and smells," says Thomas Shipley, associate professor of psychology at Temple University. He suspects that interest in comfort food and family cookbooks has intensified since 9/11, because people want to evoke "some of the security they felt in childhood." One reason old recipes are so treasured is that they bring back memories of particular relatives. "Years ago, people made the same dishes over and over," says Kancigor. Home cooks didn't try to impress guests with flashy new dishes. "If you went to Aunt Sally's house, you knew you were going to get her sweet-and-sour meatballs." That kind of familiarity provides another kind of comfort today, when counting calories and cutting carbs seem to be a national obsession. "By virtue of using a family recipe, you may be freeing yourself from the anxiety associated with dieting," says Dr. Shipley. "Rather than being concerned about how much butter goes into a dish, you think, 'This is how Grandma did it.' " While family cookbooks comfort many people, their lasting value may come from the fact that they are often modern-day versions of the family Bible - the book in which the family's history is recorded. In those cases, a family cookbook may be the only connection between the past and the present, the New World and the Old. "It is one thing to learn history in school," says Kancigor. "By learning about their family, [people] understand that history is evolving and learn how their own family is a part of it." 透過相簿╱剪貼簿保留家族歷史 透過相簿╱剪貼簿保存家族歷史，在美國也是一種流行的方式。 剪貼簿的歷史可溯及到幾百年前，現在美國開始又普及起來。美國第三任總統傑弗遜是個剪貼簿迷，馬克吐溫也是。傑弗遜一生蒐集了很多剪貼簿，內容包括了剪報、素描、日記、落葉標本、詩篇和其他值得紀念的事物。馬克吐溫的剪貼簿則重現了他的生活和他所生活的年代，內容包括：圖片、紀念品、關於他的著作和表現的文章。他還獲得一種自黏式的剪貼簿專利權，讓剪貼簿的功能發揮又快又好。 過去的剪貼簿和今日的剪貼簿稍有不同。1800年代由於沒有相機，家族成員的照片並不普及。在相片之前，剪貼簿迷會從報紙上剪下好文章、或是保存書信、賀卡和素描。在做這些蒐集的同時也保存了歷史的吉光片羽。 想要製作家族的照相簿，先決定焦點是什麼。是想為家族每一位成員都製作專屬的一頁？或是凌駕個人以團體為主？首先由蒐集照片、紀念品、以及家族成員的故事開始。再去訪談某些家族成員讓故事更加多元豐富，讓家族裡面發生的事件或歷史呈現更多元的觀點。內容蒐集好了，去買一本8吋×10吋或是12吋×12吋的剪貼簿，記住，買愈大的剪貼簿，就要預備愈多的照片和附件來填滿它。 提供簡單的要領來製作家族相簿╱剪貼簿： 第一頁作為家族介紹專頁。寫下一首詩、一點點家族歷史，或是製作一顆家族樹。 用跨頁的部份介紹各別家族成員、或是某個家族小團體，一頁用來貼照片，一頁用來做些文書紀錄。剪貼簿中最有價值的部份就在文字記錄，對照片中「誰？是什麼？為什麼？何時？何地？」做些簡要的紀錄。儘可能留下每位家族成員的資料，假如你對於親戚的個人事蹟所知不多，至少寫下他的名字、生日、出生地、他們的配偶和孩子的名子。 這兒也提供一些留檔資料目錄的建議：興趣和嗜好、最喜歡的歌、電影和演員、小名、學歷、工作經歷、參加的社會團體、住過的地方，或是旅行過的地方。 還有哪些資料是可以包括在相簿╱剪貼簿中的？有一些點子：家族成員的往來書信、明信片、賀卡、旅行車票或機票、電影、音樂會的票根、結婚、出生和死亡的剪報、喜帖或畢業證書、成績單、任何值得紀念的事物，剪貼簿的最後一頁留下來做一個總結，記錄你製作這本剪貼簿時的時代背景。（資料來源╱www.babyzone.com） |
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| 台灣立報徵文啟事 | |
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本報誠徵閱讀經驗分享，歡迎教師、家長及學生分享經驗，題材包括如何推動學生閱讀、啟發學生閱讀興趣、學生閱讀心得或小書評，文長500～1500字皆可，投至fiveguys@ms19.hinet.net，凡經採用，敬奉薄酬。 |
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