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教育專題 ◎ 2007-08-17
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教 育 專 題 深 入 報 導《2007-08-17》

本期內容
  ◎國際專題:東帝汶的美麗與哀愁:動盪不安的東帝汶也可以成為旅遊天堂 
  ◎東帝汶──脆弱的介入實驗 



國際專題:東帝汶的美麗與哀愁:動盪不安的東帝汶也可以成為旅遊天堂
  策劃、編譯■陳銳嬪
東帝汶有原始的沙灘、蒼翠繁茂的高原和多元的外來文化,它距離印尼度假島嶼峇里島只有數小時的飛行時間。這個亞洲最年輕的國家經過去年的動亂後,到訪該地的外國人通常只有外國軍隊、記者和援助人員。

東帝汶過去是葡萄牙殖民地,面積比夏威夷稍小,目前剛舉行總統和國會選舉,期盼可以幫助這個國家在獨立5年後恢復安定。一名曾經在海邊的私人遊客資訊中心服務的管理者荻多‧拉峇多指出:「因為安全問題,現在並沒有很多遊客。」他所服務的資訊中心,隸屬在澳洲人開的酒吧名下,通常一個月會安排8名遊客到山上或者潛水,這些遊客主要來自西方國家、新加坡和泰國。該中心在今年3月關閉,但是他樂觀地說:「我相信我們很快將會重開。」

打算發展旅遊業的初步努力在去年受到了打擊,大約6百名被革職軍人引發了暴力事件,他們殺了37個人並迫使15萬人離開家園。外國軍隊進駐維持秩序。目前還有大約3萬名流離失所者依然住在流動的帳棚中,並散居在首都狄力附近,很多住在機場或者市中心的人民,被迫在富麗堂皇的殖民地式帝汶飯店旁曬衣服。雖然從去年開始,治安已經改善很多,但是還是有偶然發生的暴力、破壞公物和縱火事件發生。該國有50%的失業率,這導致了青少年加入了黑幫文化。

東帝汶旅遊協會副主席安‧泰娜指出:「發展旅遊業對青少年非常重要,這將僱用很多員工,為他們提供工作。旅遊業也傾向尋找年輕人為員工,其實這些年輕人需要有人把他們從街巷中帶出來,帶給他們人生的意義。」泰娜之前是一名記者,她在2001年與丈夫開設潛水中心。

鄉村生活

東帝汶是世界上最貧窮的國家之一,國民平均所得每年只有4百美金,其實在帝汶海擁有豐富的能源,這讓它在紐約的銀行戶口擁有10億美金的資產。但是石油和天然氣領域需要的是專門人才,而且僱用的人力有限。撇開去年暴力事件所帶來的陰影和1999年從印尼脫離時的血腥破壞,沉睡的首都狄力依然有其魅力。

這裡的生活是標準的鄉村生活,你可以見到羊群和豬隻在小路上閒逛,也可以在城市裡看到吸引人的葡萄牙式建築物。這裡也有連綿的山脈和悠長的海岸線,但是很少見到其他交通工具,最常見的只有聯合國在這裡執行任務的白色四輪驅動車。西方人士甚至警告說,這裡沒有必要的交通。澳洲政府在旅遊指南的網頁上寫到:「如果你決定到東帝汶旅行,應該儘量避免在晚上行動,並且隨時保持最高警惕。」目前,狄力小小的國際機場,只有少數的班機往訪澳洲的達爾文和峇里島之間。

侏儒海馬和儒艮

東帝汶提供了壯麗的潛水所在,在水中你隨時可以見到稀有的生物,例如侏儒海馬和儒艮。泰娜指出,她的潛水中心,已經從之前為非政府組織和聯合國人員提供服務,轉變為把普通遊客當作服務對象,潛水的品質依舊保存。「然後在2006年,所有的遊客都取消行程了,除了一、兩個膽子比較大的遊客。目前我們又開始接到預訂,也會在設備方面進行投資。」她說,因為缺少數據,所以遊客的數目難以確定,但是根據猜測,在最近的麻煩發生前,每年抵達東帝汶的遊客在數百到一千之間。

「高效能,底容量」的旅遊業也可以發展到鄰近的島嶼──奧桃洛,並發展咖啡種植園和高原地區。在最近的選舉中,反抗英雄古斯茂成立了新的政黨,他也提到了旅遊業的重要性。泰娜補充說,政府對旅遊理事會的預算在今年大幅度地增加。

另外一個鼓舞人心的舉動是,第一個國家公園已經在東帝汶最東方設立了,該公園佔地12萬3千6百公頃,擁有豐富的珊瑚礁以及區域中其中一個最大且保存最好的低地熱帶雨林。

飯店不足

但是東帝汶目前面對的困境卻是,缺少旅遊業的基礎建設。在《寂寞星球》旅遊書上這樣介紹東帝汶:「在狄力,飯店的數量很少,交通設備不會好到那裡去,如果你打算走在路上,你也有這是條崎嶇不平道路的心理準備。」

這本旅遊指南也附上東帝汶充滿個人魅力的前總統古斯茂的詩作,他曾經率領一群游擊隊在東帝汶的山上數年,以對抗印尼軍。葡萄牙統治了這個國家好幾個世紀並在1975年撤退。不久,印尼軍隊入侵並強佔東帝汶。歷經了惡劣的佔領後,東帝汶的人民在1999年以壓倒性的票數要求獨立,它在2002年才完全獨立。

要讓旅遊業帶動東帝汶的繁榮,現在需要的是安定。曾經因為在海外進行反抗印尼統治而獲得諾貝爾和平獎的總理霍塔告訴路透社:「東帝汶現在必須努力對抗貧窮和改善治安。」也是前記者的他也希望東帝汶可以減少在媒體曝光的機會。「我相信東帝汶將會在新聞報導中消失,無論平面或電視台從來沒有正面報導過我們的發展。」

(路透社)

Troubled East Timor could be tourism paradise

It has pristine beaches, lush highlands and an exotic cultural mix -- and lies just a few hours flight east of the Indonesian resort island of Bali.

But currently almost the only overseas visitors to East Timor are foreign troops, journalists and aid workers after Asia's youngest nation descended into turmoil last year.

The former Portuguese colony, covering an area slightly smaller than Hawaii, has just staged presidential and parliamentary elections which it is hoped will help restore stability in the country five years after independence.

"Now there are not so many tourists because of security," said Tito Labato, who had helped manage a privately run tourist information centre on the beach front, before it closed in March.

The centre, below an Australian-run bar, had been arranging trips for about eight people a month -- mainly westerners, Singaporeans and Thais -- to the mountains or for diving.

"But I think we will open again," he added cheerfully.

Early attempts to build up tourism were rocked last year after the sacking of 600 rebellious soldiers triggered violence that killed 37 people and drove 150,000 from their homes.

Foreign troops had to be brought in to restore order.

About 30,000 displaced people remain in makeshift camps dotted around Dili, many in tents right next to the airport or in squares in the town centre, forced to hang their clothes out to dry on fencing next to the elegant colonial-style Timor Hotel. Security has improved since last year but sporadic violence, vandalism and arson persist, with an estimated 50 percent unemployment rate helping fan gang culture among bored youths.

Ann Turner, vice president of the Tourism Association of East Timor, said developing the sector was key for the young nation, since it could employ many people swiftly and provide careers.

"It (tourism) also tends to look to younger people for staff, exactly the people who need to be taken off the streets and given some meaning in life," added Turner, a former journalist who launched a dive centre with her husband in 2001.

VILLAGE-LIKE FEEL

East Timor, one of the world's poorest nations with only around $400 income per capita, has more than $1 billion from rich energy resources in the Timor sea in a New York bank account.

But the oil and gas sector will require specialised workers and will only be able to make a small dent in unemployment.

Despite still bearing scars from last year's violence and more bloodshed and destruction after a 1999 vote to break away from Indonesia, the sleepy capital Dili is not without charm.

It has a village-like feel with goats and pigs wandering the streets and some attractive Portuguese buildings in the city, which sprawls along stretch of coast backed by scrubby hills.

There is little traffic, apart from the white land cruisers, part of the United Nations' expansive operations in the country.

Nontheless, Western nations warn about non essential travel.

"If you decide to travel to East Timor, you should avoid all unnecessary movement at night and exercise extreme caution," the Australian government says on a travel advice Web site.

Currently, Dili's tiny international airport only has a handful of flights a day from Darwin in Australia and Bali.

PYGMY SEAHORSES

AND DUGONGS

East Timor offers spectacular diving with rare creatures ranging from pygmy seahorses to dugongs frequenting its waters.

Turner said that her dive centre, FreeFlow, had moved from catering for mainly NGO and U.N. workers to regular tourists, once word of the quality of the diving got around.

"Then 2006. All tourists cancelled, apart from one or two intrepid types," she said, adding that they were now starting to get bookings again and were investing in more equipment. She said tourist numbers were unclear given a lack of data, but guessed overall East Timor arrivals were in the hundreds, or at most the low thousands, annually before the recent troubles.

Turner also said via email that "high end, low volume" tourism was also being developed in coffee plantation and upland areas, as well as eco-resorts on nearby Atauro island.

During recent election campaigning a new party set up by resistance hero, Xanana Gusmao, referred to the importance of tourism, while Turner said the state budget for the Directorate of Tourism had been increased sharply this year.

In another encouraging move, the first national park has just been set up on the eastern tip of East Timor, covering 123,600 hectares (305,400 acres) of rich coral reefs and one of the largest intact lowland rainforests in the region.

FEW HOTELS

But East Timor certainly faces challenges from a lack of tourist infrastructure.

"There are only a handful of hotels outside Dili, the transport facilities can be hard work and it you're intending to get off the beaten track you must be prepared to rough it...," a forward in the Lonely Planet guide to East Timor says.

The guide book includes a poetically written section by the charismatic former president Gusmao, who spent years in East Timor's hills leading an ill-equiped band of guerrillas fighting Indonesian rule.

Portugal ruled the country for centuries before withdrawing in 1975. Later that year, Indonesian troops invaded and annexed East Timor.

After suffering an often harsh occupation, East Timorese voted overwhelmingly for independence in 1999, becoming fully independent in 2002.

For tourism to thrive East Timor clearly needs stability now.

President Jose Ramos-Horta, who won a Nobel Peace prize for overseeing the campaign against Indonesian rule from overseas, told Reuters in a recent interview that East Timor needed to focus on fighting poverty and improving security.

The former journalist also said he expected East Timor to get less media coverage from now.

"I believe that Timor will disappear from the news because media channels, the TV clips, rarely ever talk about positive developments."

REUTERS
(回目錄)



東帝汶──脆弱的介入實驗
  &
雖然國際社會,如英國前首相布萊爾,在臨時動議中決定介入東帝汶事件以結束印尼對東帝汶的控制,但是幫派暴力、強暴和縱火攻擊加上最近新成立的政府,東帝汶看來還有持續8年脆弱的歲月要走。

在同一時期,國際社會介入科索沃和獅子山事件,並稱之為「人道介入」。東帝汶是嚴重的且在持續發生的事件,但是已經不再獲得國際政治關注的眼光。結果是,建國議程在2002年正式獨立後依舊沒有任何進展,甚至會以失敗收場。

內部因素相當重要。東帝汶社會嚴重分歧,分為東西部兩派。東部以抵抗印尼統治的東帝汶獨立革命陣線為首。東帝汶在2006年與澳洲簽署了條約,保障了石油和天然氣的收入,但是大多數東帝汶人仍然貧窮,失業人口高達80%。

語言也是另外一個阻礙。和印尼文、葡萄牙文競爭為官方語言的當地主要語言──德頓語,在令人吃驚的情況下獲選為東帝汶官方語言。去年軍人叛亂所造成的暴力和政治攤牌的傷口還需要被治療。據聯合國表示,在當時的1百萬人口中,有15%的人流離失所至今。這是7月選舉可見的場景之一。

東帝汶獨立革命陣線贏得大多數席次,但是卻喪失權力給東帝汶民族解放軍前領導古斯茂。東帝汶第一任總統古斯茂在上週被現任總統霍塔委任為總理。

在宣誓就職儀式中,古斯茂誓言讓分裂的國家重新統一,並保證沒有任何政黨、組織和個人會被排除在政治過程當中。新政府的首要任務是重建信心。但是東帝汶獨立革命陣線領袖,前任總理阿卡提利認為,新政府是違法的,宣布國會杯葛行動。

雖然阿卡提利認為這次選舉涉及暴力,包括對聯合國人員和澳洲維持和平人士進行攻擊,但是聯合國認為,這都是獨立革命陣線支持者所為。目前為止,獨立革命陣線依舊不管非政府組織和選舉觀察家的勸告,不願重返政治協商過程。

東帝汶事件已經引不起布萊爾和他人的關心,因為他們認為這是建立新國際秩序的必要過程,但是澳洲首都坎培拉作為該國的主要雙邊援助者,對它關心依舊不減。澳洲依然有大約1千名軍士派駐在那裡,其中一部分是聯合國維和部隊人員。以目前看來,這些軍士沒有辦法提早離開東帝汶。

來自澳洲的報紙編輯謝雷登在最新的評論中指出,獨立革命陣線該為動亂負責任。「它的領袖說這兒沒有秩序和充滿暴力,但是這些都是支持該陣線的暴民所為,它的領袖應該制止他們。獨立革命陣線越來越像哈瑪斯,它應該做出選擇──成為軍事政黨或者受人尊敬的政黨。」

他認為,不安定將會阻礙吸引外資和發展旅遊業的計畫。澳洲在未來可能留在當地發展,或者見證內戰的爆發。對外來勢力的介入有另外一種看法,近年來,東帝汶長期依賴外來的軍事援助,數額高達3億美金。而聯合國一系列的進駐行動也是選舉的熱門議題,不少選民開始思考,努力爭取來的國家主權的意義何在。

赫達在一個公開民主的論壇上寫道:「這樣的擔心直指最核心的問題:一個曾經被神話化的領袖失去人們的信任。」他認為,當獨立革命陣線越來越明顯的顯示,它不是一個國族運動,而只是被東部人所主導的政黨;而曾經擔任游擊隊領袖和被稱為國父的古斯茂,被當作國家團結和公平的象徵,也面臨同樣的去神話過程。霍塔和古斯茂作很多努力以獲得支持,他們或許依舊是這個國家最受人尊敬的政治家,但是一些光環已經消失。

簡而言之,解放運動領袖正在艱苦地維持他們所達到的成果、以前為東帝汶歡呼的國際領袖已經離開,而巨大的鄰居──印尼,靜靜地在1999年的邊界觀察著它。如果這些解放運動領袖失敗,未來會發生什麼事,沒有人知道。

(衛報)
(回目錄)



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(回目錄)



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